Goto Tsubaki Distillery:
The Future of Japanese Craft Gin with up-and-coming distillers. -Part 2

This month we feature the remarkable Goto Tsubaki Distillery. In the second part, we will consider keywords for the future while unraveling the current Japanese craft gin scene.

writer：Ryoko Kuraishi

Mr. Kito (left) and Mr. Kadota (right) at work. There are only three of us, so we do everything ourselves, from development to bottling, shipping, and maintenance of the adjacent church," says Kadota.

New craft gin distilleries are springing up all over Japan.

The three members of "Goto Tsubaki Distillery" are acting as advisors to the young distillers and encouraging their craftsmanship in order to pass on their cultivated manufacturing and marketing skills to the next generation.

Mr. Kito, in particular, is sending out highly specialized information via SNS. He hopes that young people will make use of his knowledge.

When I talk with these two about the current craft gin scene, it seems that the products on the market can be divided into three patterns: 1) using local specialties, 2) using unusual ingredients, and 3) demonstrating their true value in cocktails, as if a bartender is involved in the supervision process.

Botanicals used in GOTOGIN. Juniper berries are thoroughly pre-processed to ensure a clear aroma and taste with no cloying taste, such as by splitting each berry into single letters.

Mr. Kito: "There are many different kinds of gins in various regions, and many of them use local citrus, fruits, and plants as key botanicals.

This is a perfectly natural way to make gin, but if the aroma of a particular ingredient is too obvious, it tends to become a "souvenir.

It is perfect for drinking on a trip or taking home as a memento of the trip, but how to incorporate it into everyday life? That will be a challenge.

Kadota: "In addition, as a luxury item, we want to add another layer beyond the aroma and taste.

It could be a narrative, the character of the brewer, or any number of strategies, but in any case, without this layer, the drinker's experience will be lacking in depth.

The distiller is Arnold Holstein. The shape of the chamber is based on a camellia seed. It was made exclusively for the Goto Tsubaki Distillery.

What keywords should we look out for in the upcoming craft gin scene?

The key word for the future of craft gin, as the duo sees it, is "harmony.

One sip of their gin will make you want to drink and taste more of it. According to Mr. Kito, it is "the harmony of various botanicals" that invites us on a positive trip, making us want to feel better by drinking it.

It is difficult to determine what botanicals are used as ingredients, but the taste is complex, yet somehow delicious and lingering. And although it has a nice mouthfeel, the aftertaste is crisp and clean. That's why you want to drink more.

That's what "Harmony" is all about.

Mr. Kito: "What I value in gin design is the harmony of the botanicals as a whole and the sharpness of the aftertaste.

When juniper berries, which are essential for gin, are distilled, the first thing that comes out is a refreshing aroma like pine tar, and the last thing that comes out is the fatty aftertaste. It is this aroma that makes gin gin, but it is the fat of the essential oil that gives it its sharp aftertaste.

Based on this juniper berry aroma and sharpness, layers of various botanicals are created, but the method of distilling multiple botanicals at the same time, which is the general gin production method, makes it impossible to design a detailed aroma. That is why we distill each botanical individually to extract its essence."

A view of the distillery.

Kadota: "I think that our method of distilling each botanical, even if it is not a fragrance, is very Japanese.

For example, bonito and kelp are used separately to make dashi, right?

I think Japanese people intuitively understand that it is better to prepare them separately in order to bring out the best of the ingredients and to avoid any unwanted flavors.

Therefore, in the future, we may see more distillers like us, who logically determine which botanicals to emphasize and distill each botanical separately.

Mr. Kito: "In addition, I would like to draw your attention to gin, which is not easy to understand.

There are only a few makers in Japan that only make gin, but those places are all very enthusiastic about it. Tatsumi Distillery, Kyoto Distillery of Seasonal Beauty, and Alembic Distillery ...... don't make overly simple gins that are easy to understand.

They thoroughly pursue the balance of botanicals and the harmony of flavors and aromas.

The distillery offers tours every Saturday. We hope people will travel to Gotō for GOTOGIN and enjoy the sake while taking in the scenery up close," says Kadota. It is our dream that people will enjoy the sake in this way," says Kadota.

What to expect in the Japanese gin scene.

Kadota: "I think that Japanese whiskey came to the world's attention largely because Suntory and Nikka won the Grand Prix at a series of world-class competitions and used their awards to successfully promote their products.

Looking back on the past, I believe that it is often the top makers that make a category grow.

I think it is important for the top makers to take the lead in developing what Japanese craft gin is and how to develop it, in order to encourage young people to enter the market and to revitalize the scene.

Mr. Kito said, "Gin is not well known in Japan, especially in rural areas, because its home is in Europe.

I feel that the style of tasting the aroma of gin and soaking in the lingering aftertaste has yet to become widespread, but I hope that the way of tasting craft gin will gradually spread.

I hope that people will learn how to drink it straight or on the rocks to experience the aroma.

I hope that bartenders will come up with cocktails that will further bring out the appeal of craft gin.

Many bartenders say they serve "GOTOGIN" straight, but I am sure they can create surprising cocktails that easily exceed the creator's imagination.

I believe that creative cocktail making is the essence of Japanese cocktails.